1. Elements of Wave Mechanics, Analytical Description of Two-Dimensional Waves.
2. Wave formation in the coastal zone, Refraction, Diffraction, Breaking, Reflection, and Wave run-up on the shores.
3. Wind-generated waves, Wave generation, Statistical analysis and energy spectra, Wave forecasting.
4. Wave-generated coastal currents.
5. Coastal engineering works, Operation, Form, Hydrodynamic loads.
6. Coastal Morphology. Transport of sediments in the coastal zone.
7. Morphodynamic of the bed. Threshold of motion, quantitative relationships of sediment supply.
8. Artificial beach nourishment. Environmental impacts.
9. Numerical methodologies in coastal engineering.

Learning Outcomes

The course material includes the basic principles of non-harmonic wave behaviour in the coastal zone, including the phenomena of breaking, breaking, uplift, climbing, refraction, diffraction, reflection, and transmission. The course presents the basic principles of wave-induced currents and sediment transport in the coastal zone.

With the successful completion of the course, the student will be able to:

• Recognise the processes occurring in the coastal zone under the influence of wind-generated waves.
• Analyse meteorological data for the calculation of the wave climate.
• Calculate the sediment transport in the coastal zone and assesses coastal erosion/accretion.
• Compose the above and apply them in the preparation of a preliminary coastal engineering study.